Pastukhov mafika: Tlhaloso

Mount Elbrus ke phahameng ka ho fetisisa e seng feela ka Caucasus empa hape le Europe. khoune ena ea seretse se chesang foqohe le litlhōrō tse peli tse, seo bophahamo ba sona e limithara tse 5642 (ka bophirimela ka holimo) le 5621 limithara (bochabela vertex). Pakeng tsa bona tebileng saddle e teng ka e bophahamong ba limithara tse 5325.

Elbrus hohela e seng feela climbers moo. Phephetsa 'me u nka ho maikutlo a hore bula ho tloha holimo, climbers tsoa hōle le haufi linaheng tse ling.

litsela hloa

Kotsi ntse a hloa le mapetsong a koahetsoeng ka lehloa ka glaciers, meea e matla, batang le ho haella ha oksijene nakong moepa ho bophahamong.

U ka khona ho tlhōrōng ho tloha lehlakoreng le ka leboea. Nakong ea moepa maikutlo a hlollang ka botle tsa lithaba lehloa-capped tšimong ea tala. Ka matsoapong ka leboea na nyollela, litsela katoa, mek'huk'hung le caffe, kahoo climbers tlameha ho itšetleha ka matla a bona.

Hloa ka lehlakoreng le ka bophirimela ho Thaba ea Elbrus e nkoa e le e feteletseng haholo. Mona, hape, ha ho nyollela, lehloa groomers, e leleka ho fihlela thabeng climbers ho bophahamo lakatsa, ho na le ho na tsa dibopeho tsa motheo. Ka tsela eo a mangata lilomong le glaciers, kahoo mona ea climbers nang le phihlelo feela. Ha ho phahamisa ka holimo tsa bochabela ho tloha fetise Irik-Chat (bophahamong 3667 limithara) e fana ka pono e ntle ea tlhōrō bochabela. Mona mokhoa Glacier phethahatsa mokhatlo oa ka leqhoa, le ropo ruta le mekhoa bakeng sa inshorense.

Hloa tlhōrōng ea boroa

Bakeng sa hloa Elbrus rala litsela tse fetang tse makholo a mabeli, tseo ka bobeli bakeng sa climbers ba nang le phihlelo, hammoho le bakeng sa ba qalang. Moepa ho tlhōrōng tswa matsoapong ka boroa e atile har'a ba qalang climbers. E qala ho tswa ho Azau (bophahamo limithara tse 2,200) ho lefisa. Mona ke acclimatization pele ho maemo a lithaba. Ka mor'a moo, tsela e isang thabeng bolulo "libarele" Pastukhov o Rocks, ka mor'a moo qala moepa ho tlhōrōng ea Thaba ea Elbrus.

climbers ea nang le phihlelo a ka hlōla a le thabeng ka lithahasello tsa bona, 'me batho ba se nang phihlelo, ho hlophisa lihlopha le moepa tsamaea le tataisa. Ka lebaka la maemo a thata boemo ba leholimo Thabeng Elbrus moepa phetha molemo nakong ea lehlabula le ho oa ha ho ka morao ho feta October.

ke "Rocks Pastukhov oa" eng

Sehlopha sena a mafika teng ka lehlakoreng le ka boroa Elbrus. Stone orilla e mong ea bitsoang ka mor'a hore ho hloa Russia le sesole topographer Andrei Pastukhov, ba kopanela ka ho ithuta tsa Caucasus Mountains. Le moepa ho phahameng bophahamong motho o tla feta acclimatization le ho sebelisoa ho lebaka la ho hloka maemo oksijene lithabeng.

Ka tloaelo Rocks Pastukhov e, seo bophahamo ba sona bo fapana ho tloha 4600 ho limithara tse 4800 le ho mo sebeletsa e le sebaka sa tsa acclimatization pele hloelle tlhōrōng ea Thaba ea Elbrus. Mona sehlopha sa qeta bosiu litenteng. Insufficiently lokiselitse moepa tlhōrōng ea batho ba ka tlōla majoe ka snowcat (lipalangoang khethehileng bakeng sa motsamao oa glaciers) le tsota thaba khatholla, 'me joale etsa leloko la snowboard kapa skis.

Ba bang ba tlhahisoleseding e mabapi le Andrei Pastukhov

Pastuhov Andrey o ile a hlaha ka 1858 profinseng Kharkov. O qeta sekolong sesole ka St. Petersburg, ka nako eo o ile a romeloa ho botseta ba mapotiele sesole, 'me hamorao o ile a khethoa ho Caucasus Military Setereke. Dimmapa ea thaba ranges ho Dagestan, 'me ka 1889 hlōla bochabela tlhōrō ea Kazbek lehlakoreng leboea. Ha ho ea ka pel'a hae ba ne ba sa etsa moepa joalo.

Selemo hamorao, Russia hloa pele a ema ho tlhōrō e ka bophirimela ea Elbrus ntle lithapo. Phutuhong ena o ile a etsa 'mapa oa glaciers le bokella e le pokello e khōlō ea liminerale tse lithaba. Nakong ea 1890 ea surveyor entse Methati maloa lithabeng, e leng nakong eo katoa litsela tse fapaneng. Feela ka 1896, ho etsa moepa bobeli ka tlhōrō e ka bochabela. Nakong ena sehlopha ts'ehetsana, ba tsamaea le eena, o ile a qeta bosiu ka orilla majoe, 'me joale ile a khomarela lebitso la hae Pastukhov majoe.

The khale moepa tseleng

The khale moepa tseleng ka Elbrus ke ea ho rarahana 2a. Lift ka etsa hore motho leha e le ofe 'meleng ka bophelo bo botle le phihlelo ea ho tsamaea lithabeng. tsela ea hao e tla hloka thepa le liaparo mofuthu hobane boemo ba leholimo ka Elbrus tsejoa esale pele.

Ka mor'a sehlopha e khutšoanyane acclimatization seteishene "Azau" le thepa eohle ea ka ea kabel koloi mphahamisetsa ho ba bolelele ba limithara tse 3800 ho bolulo "libarele". Mona ke liphaposi insulated, tse reretsoeng bakeng sa ho lula ka lebaka la batho ba 50, hammoho le 2 Kitchens le libakeng tsa ho jela. Ba sirelelitsoe ke ho na le futhumatsang motlakase. Ho tloaela ho ba lithabeng, e leng "libarele" ho hlokahala hore ho qeta masiu 2-3.

Ka mor'a moo climbers ba fallela thabeng "Shelter motso" 'me le etse ho tsoa leetong la ho fana ka koetliso ho Pastukhov majoe. The tselaneng matha hammoho fatse leqhoa, koahetsoeng ka lehloa.

Hloelle tlhōrōng ea Elbrus qala bosiu. From bolulo ho Pastukhov Rocks ho ea ka 2 lihora tse. Ka limithara tse 300-400 fihlela ka majoe moepa e tobileng e qala, ka mor'a moo tseleng reteleha 'me o saddle ena. Ka mor'a hore motho a phomole ka hora ka saddle ho ka etsa moepa ho vertex efe kapa efe.

Thepa ya hloa Elbrus

lokela ho tlisa ho ea letsoapong le ka boroa la hlaphoheloa ka:

• ulu kapa k'hothone, underwear;
• banyalani ba bang ba disete underwear le likausi mofuthu;
• robetse mokotleng oo ka mamella mocheso ho fihlela ho -5 ° C;
• termomasku ho sireletsa sefahleho tloha frostbite kapa tranelate a ho sireletsa;
• windproof mofuthu baki ea ka Hood kapa baki e tla mamella mocheso oa -2 ° C;
• Alpine lirifi le bohato ka thata le welts bakeng sa ho lokisa likatse le lieta ntshuwang.

Ho phaella moo, o tla hloka katse, leqhoa selepe, ho hahlaula naha thuso ea pele Kit, toiletries, lipalo le ski, litlelafo mofuthu, headlamp toche. Ba bonnete ba hore nka le ski cap, le diporele le-filter UV.

Latelwa le polokeho ha hloa

Pele hloa sehlopha tlameha ho ngolisitsoeng le batla le pholoso sehlopha EMERCOM tsa Russia. Ha ngodisa bontša palo ea batho, le nako ea ho tsela taolo khutla, 'me moeta-pele ya data sehlopha. Nakong ea moepa tseo u ka se ke ua tsamaea ka tsela e itseng ka lengolo la tumello le.

Ba bonnete ba hore hlahloba boteng ba thepa, lebokosana thuso ea pele 'me-le-moea kapa ka mekhoa e meng ea puisano. Ka nepo nkoa a se a liqhomane le liaparo tla etsa hloa thabisang le ke ka e ka ntoa ho pholoha.

hloko ka ho khetheha lokela ho fuoa ho acclimatization ho maemo a lithaba. Hloa tlhōrōng ka matsatsi a 3-4 feela ka mor'a ho pepesehela ho "libarele" le letšolo la teko ho Pastukhov majoe. Elbrus ha tšoarela fuoa koetliso ho hloka boikarabelo. Batho ba bangata ba ka 'na ba qala anoxia, ho tšoaroa ke hlooho e matla. Tse ling tsa ho hloka phallo oksijene ho mmuso sa lokang, ho felloa ke kutloisiso e bona sa ntho ea sebele. Haeba sena se etsahala, o lokela ho theoha.

Ea lihlahisoa tseo u lokela ho nka ka nama phehiloeng, meroho, litholoana omisitsoeng le linate. Ba sirelelitsoe ke pele etsahalang tsela e ka phehiloeng sopho e entsoeng ka, mahe, cutlets khoho, motoho. Chocolate buelloa se ke a ja, hobane e ka etsa hore ho nyekoa ke pelo le ho e mpe bakeng sa sebete.

The leloko ho tloha tlhōrōng ea Elbrus

Batho ba bangata ba tla ho hotel "Azau Elbrus" ho ea ski. Ka letsoapong le ka boroa ho na le 7 le ski matsoapong bakeng skiers ba nang le phihlelo le ba qalang. bolelele bona palo yohle e 11 km SE. Hoo e batlang e tsohle downhill - ho tselaneng e 'ngoe mabapi le 6 km lohle, eo ho eona ho na le li-index le dividers, le matlooa polokeho ke feela libakeng tse ling.

Sebakeng seo ho na le batho ba 'maloa le ski matsoapong liteishene, e fana ka skiers phahamisa. Ntlha phahameng ka ho fetisisa ho tseo ba phahama ka le phahamisa ka - seteishene "Gara-Bashi", e le ho e bophahamong ba limithara tse 3800 (a hanyane ka holimo ho "libarele" setšabelo). Leha ho le joalo e phahameng ho fihlela, "Shelter motso" ka fihla ke snowcat. Sebaka pakeng tsa "motso Shelter" le "Gara-Bashi" ka tseba feela ke skiers nang le phihlelo. Ba bang ba skiers, feteletseng tla Pastukhov majoe. Downhill skiing sebakeng sena ke e kotsi haholo hobane o ka kena khoa kapa ho oa ka libota na mbonge ya.

Safety ka matsoapo skiing rarahaneng "Elbrus Azau" laola Pholoso Service, libaka tse haholo-holo kotsi kenyeleditsweng gorole sireletsang ka e mong le e tsela karolo lik'hamera video. skiers se nang phihlelo o molemo palama tsamaea le morupeli e, hobane tse hlaha lithaba matsoapong ka ba tsejoa esale pele.